Trees

Plant native trees and avoid invasive trees. Native trees are adapted to your area, will have a better chance of survival and will require less maintenance. To be eligible for a rebate, homeowners must select a native tree that is at least 5 feet tall and from the Approved Tree List. 

Consider native tree species based on things like shape, size, and how they may look in the future at maturity. Some trees may provide sap or have seed pods or fruit that you may find undesirable.

Think about the resources the tree might need (sun, water, and soil nutrients) and which species are most appropriate for your selected location.

Create a planting plan to meet the needs of the tree and select locations with the soil type and texture in mind. A soil test can help determine the soil type and nutrient levels so you can match it with the best trees adapted to those soil conditions.

Consider the space you provide for your tree in terms of their light and water requirements. Trees vary in their tolerance of wet soils and amount of sunlight required for growth. Also think about the future and if there is anything in that location that will inhibit growth, pose a danger to you or your property, or make future maintenance difficult. 

Check community or local ordinances regarding tree planting and with your local utilities for underground wires or other building infrastructure. This is especially important if you are interested in planting a tree in the road right of way.

Trees can be planted anytime of the year if properly maintained. However, the best time of the year to plant trees is in the early spring or in the fall. Spring plantings benefit from the rainy season after the soil has thawed. Fall plants are better for deciduous tree plantings as they are about to go dormant. Conifers like pine, cedars and spruce can be planted in the fall, but they may require periodic watering during mild winters.

Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball and slightly shallower than the root ball. (The root ball is comprised of all the roots contained in a pot. The top of the root ball begins where the roots start to emerge from the trunk.)

If your planting hole has slick sides, roughen the sides and bottom with a pick or shovel. This makes it easier for root tips to penetrate into the native soil.

Be gentle but firm when removing the container from your tree. Make sure to protect the foliage and lay the tree on its side with the container end near the planting hole. Hit the bottom and sides of the container until the root ball is loosened. Slide the pot off the root ball and gently lower the tree into the hole.

Check the root ball for circling roots. If circling roots are left in place near the trunk, they will cut into the trunk as the trunk’s girth expands. Gently uncurl and straighten the roots so that they are going outward from the trunk. If a circling root is too stiff to move, you may need to cut it off, but be careful not to cut off too much of the root ball.

If soil covers the base of the trunk, it will lead to rot. Aim to have the top of the root ball about 1/2 to 1 inch above the surrounding soil surface, making sure not to cover it with soil unless roots are exposed. Adjust the hole depth by lifting the tree out of the hole (lift it by the root ball, not by the trunk) and adjusting the soil level in the planting hole.

Adjust the tree while you have the chance. Situate it so that branches won’t be in the way of pedestrian or car traffic. If you prefer a particular side of the tree, turn it toward a prominent viewpoint (such as your kitchen window). In sunny areas, position the tree so that the best-shaded side of the trunk faces southwest. When turning the tree, lift it from the base of the root ball, not from the trunk.

Once the tree is in the hole, stand back and make sure the trunk is standing vertically. Tilt the root ball until the tree is straight, then backfill firmly under and around the root ball.

If your native soil is hard to work with (e.g., heavy clay) or retains little moisture (e.g., very sandy), you can treat it to some organic amendment, such as compost. The amendment won’t be a permanent solution to soil deficiencies, but it will help retain water and air in the soil around the root ball for the first few vital years. If adding soil amendment, always mix it with soil from the planting site; about one part amendment to three parts native soil is a good proportion for backfill soil.

Pack down the soil as you backfill. Using the heel of your foot or the handle end of the shovel, press down firmly to collapse any large air pockets in the soil. This will help stabilize the tree in the hole. Don’t wait until the planting is finished; press down every few shovels of soil.

Build a watering basin around the root ball by creating a berm a little larger than the root ball perimeter. This concentrates water on the root ball. A tree that has a dry root ball can stand in a moist backfill without absorbing water. You’ll need to water your tree thoroughly after planting with about 15 gallons of water. Monitor your tree’s water needs at least once a week for the first month.

Remove the nursery stake that came tightly tied to the trunk after planting. Stake the tree loosely for protection or support if needed. Use only soft, pliable tree ties. Do not use wire, even if it’s inside a hose. Wire can cut into a trunk. If the trunk can’t stand up on its own, stake it so that it stands upright. The stakes should be placed outside of the root ball. Plan to remove stakes as soon as the tree can support itself, in 6 to 12 months.

Cover the entire planting area with a 3 to 4-inch layer of mulch but keep it 2 inches from the base of the trunk. Mulch keeps the topsoil temperate for root growth, reduces surface evaporation of water, slows or stops weed and grass growth around the tree’s base, and prevents a hard crust from forming on the soil surface. Do not create a mountain of mulch.